In the old fortress of Daulatabad the monkey is now king.
Daulatabad was once - some 14 centuries ago - an important prosperous city along caravan routes. Today it has been reduced to being just a village, based around the former city of the same name.
Nowadays, right from the entrance you see the monkeys sitting or chasing each other on the old fort ramparts and ruins. People are hardly interesting them. Maybe if we had some food for them.
It is only after I enter and walk for about half a kilometer that I get rid of all the bugging souvenir vendors. From then on it's quiet and beautiful.
I walk past the mosque and into a courtyard where lots of sculptures are lined up nicely and labelled. They're mostly from this site or from Ellora.
From time to time I can hear the cry of a peacock. Eventually, I spot it while it is slowly crossing the alley. But my lens is not appropriate and by the time I have switched lenses the peacock has disappeared again. Soon I can hear his cry again in the distance.
The fortress is built on top of a conical hill. I have seen quite a few fortresses in Europe, including the majestic fortress in Salzburg which couldn't be conquered by Napoleon, but this one seems to surpass everything I've seen so far.
It is extremely inaccessible. Actually, the only way to access is across a narrow bridge and then through a dark narrow gallery cut in the rock, twisted and sloped upward. At some point there's even a series of steep stairs. All in the dark. Bats live and thrive here and ... I feel a bit spooked.
This is when I remember again that I wanted to bring my headlamp to India ... But I do not want to pay for a torch and, instead, try to use what I have handy. Built-in flash! It works magic and I find my way ahead of other people. Mainly also because of the terrible stench. That and the bat shrills in the dark - you don't need much more to feel spooked.
It is only a small hill, but I feel totally exhausted midway. It is hot and very humid. It's depressing when I look down and realize just how slow I manage to advance. Two weeks ago I was biking 100 km in Vancouver in the rain with Maria and Spiros. A week ago I was getting soaked on the streets of Mumbai. Now I'm drenched in my own sweat. Next week I'll be hopefully climbing up Garibaldi Mountain. Isn't this exciting ?
I wouldn't mind riding an elephant now :-)
Several massive old cannons are overlooking the countryside on top.
Coming back downhill requires a lot less effort. Ramesh is waiting patiently in his car. Again I'm getting assaulted by souvenir vendors. Too bad I have to escape by getting into the car. The fruit stands along the road are very colorful and inviting.
We're continuing our way towards Ellora.It starts drizzling again but that doesn't lat long fortunately. By the time we get to Ellora it's almost sunny again. This time I learned my lesson: no more guiding. It's too expensive for what you get.
What suprises me here - just like at Ajanta or Daulatabad for that matter - is the number of locals that come here. It resembles a pilgrimage. Entire families with kids, uncles and aunts are here to see the caves and socialize.
In Ellora you first notice the monkeys at the entrance.
I'm not going to swell describing the caves. They are fantastic, stunning, mind blowing. You can find readily information on the internet and in the travel guides. I'd rather let the images speak. What I found amazing - and you may not learn from those guides - is just how many locals come visit this place.
It's a busy colorful crowd. It's a stark but delightful contrast between the bright colors of the women's sarees and the color of the rock. Between the human size and the scale of some of those caves, in particular cave 16 - a huge complex on several levels.
As I was hunting for some long-longed-for pictures with women in sarees against a neutral background I eventually realized that I was being "hunted", too. People were trying to take pictures of me, and I'm pretty sure quite a few took pictures since I was so focused on my subjects. A couple asked me to take pictures with them. Aren't we people funny? I was wondering what that would bring them - having a picture with me ! - as I politely refused each time. Hardly anybody spoke any English.
One thing that impressed me - guys! - was a gorgeous representation these people had of female body. Sensual, voluptuous, these sculpted women' bodies do not lack on curves. Their full round shapes could embarass any silicon art-work of plastic surgery. I didn't expect that in approximately 2 millenia old Buddhist caves ... But then, what do I know about history :-)
Some more pictures from the caves without any additional comment.
Bibi-Ka-Maqbara is a copy of the Taj Mahal, but smaller. It, too, was built by a powerful ruler as a monument of his love to his deceased wife. The role of the swans is taken over by some beautiful fat white geese. Everybody stops to feed them. The park is fairly big ad there's people almost everywhere, sitting, strolling or picnic-ing. Families, young couples and the never-missing tourists as well.
I'm joking with Ramesh - " Would you do that for your wife? ... No, please don't tell me you don't have the money. If you had the money, would you do that?"
He's very hesitant. How to say no? " My husband wouldn't do it. It's a waste." We both laugh.
I don't know - maybe if there's the prestige of the ruler that matters more, then it might make sense. On the other hand, what would all these crowds go see otherwise ?
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