Days 29-31 - Annapurna Base Camp

Sinuwa to ABC and back to Sinuwa

The next morning in Sinuwa I take my time. I sit at "my" table facing up the valley and thus with Machhapuchhre in sight, and I enjoy my breakfast in the sun. The flowers are gorgeous around me and I can't help but take lots of pictures of them, too.
However, after the relaxed breakfast it is time to go. The trail from here is a continuous up and down through bamboo forest/jungle. it also crosses lots of little creeks and streams.The valley is narrowing and deepening continuously and so it obstructs any views. There are many waterfalls on both sides of it. Today I'm beating all the times listed on the timetable boards.
Over the last couple of days I noticed some pink and yellow flowers on the trail which seem to be orchids. Of course Pipi has no idea and nobody else, either. Based on my very little experience with wild orchids in Canada I do think they are wild orchids. But there's nobody to confirm or decline. Nice flowers!
When we reach Himalayan - consisting of only 2 lodges - it is still very early and we could continue but I have promised Pipi to stop here. I could go on easily. One lodge doesn't have rooms but the other one does. We are just in time for lunch, which we enjoy outside in the sun. Later in the afternoon - after most trekkers have left the place - it starts drizzling.
I have finished my book and ask Pipi for an exchange. He gives me the "Ghosts of Everest" which looks totally unrecognizable. The book was completely new - mint condition - when I gave it to him to read. It now looks like one of those telephone books in public phone cabins. Bent, crinkled, damp and tearing apart. How did it get like this ? But instead of worrying about that I start reading it.

Over night it clears up and in the morning it is sunny again. We continue going up towards Machhapuchhre Base Camp where I promised Pipi we'll have lunch. The first section of the trail to Deurali keeps going through forest and without views.

However, sometime after Deurali the landscape changes. The valley widens suddenly and finally starts looking like a typical glacial valley. We are now in the alpine. The Modi Khola roaring further down is now meandering quietly. The trail becomes also very flat and gentle. The valley walls are smooth rock walls, high and impressive. Ahead of us at the end of the valley there seems to be some snow-covered peak, but the weather becomes increasingly cloudy and I can't see much.
We reach Machhapuchhre Base Camp before lunch, faster than expected, and we stop for lunch. Over the last 3 hours we gained 800m in elevation. That's something. We are now at 3700m and I don't want to run up the next 400m or so.
The Machhapuchhre Base Camp is a cluster of some 5-6 lodges at the end of the valley. Looking at it Machhapuchhre is to the right very close, but we can only see the toe of a glacier right now.
The trail further to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) goes left through yet another glacial valley.
While we're enjoying our lunchbreak at MBC it starts drizzling, then it stops. Then it starts raining and we need to really seek shelter.
In spite of the rain and the clouds I push for getting to ABC. It has stopped raining when we leave MBC but not for long. By the time we reach ABC, in something close to a whiteout and, of course, rain, we're soaked. And I'm hyper.
Views? None I am aware of but I'm optimistic. Rain in the afternoon usually means clear weather in the morning. Let all the moisture come down now... But shortly after we arrive the rain stops for a while agaitakes a break.

Did I say hyper? Well, after dropping my pack I start jumping all over. Do you still have energy? someone asks me. Oh, yeah. Lots! I'm happy. There are no views but we're here. And I hand Pipi a Snickers prize.
I got to Annapurna Base Camp. Did I ever believe I would get here? That I'd come to Nepal and enjoy all this? I had doubts I'll be able to make it even before starting the trek.

What is this life and the plans we think we have? The dreams we dream and never fulfill. The plans we outline but never take to an end. The surprises that take us out of balance only to regain some other balance later.
I like my book because it also raises these questions. And I like the way Hemmleb talks about climbing and the balanced way the expedition members talk.
I am far from being a balanced person but I do know to appreciate and seek balance.

After jumping around for a while I go do a little exploratory tour. I notice some tables and benches at the end of the building facing Machhapuchhre and Annapurna - depending on which way you sit. Then, behind the building is a small pond. That could provide some nice reflexions, the photographer in me thinks right away. Then there's a narrow trail that leads up to a ridge which turns out to be the ri of the glacier. Itdoens't necessarily look like one, but it is: a huge wide stream of rubble, rocks and sand. It looks like a huge trench. In several spots the ice beneath is visible, too. Plus there are the cracking and rolling noises - the breath of the glacier. The ridge itself is very fragile and you can see how it crumbles down and slides in many spots.
I continue walking on the ridge until I reach a chorten with lots of prasyer flags fluttering around. When I bend down and lean against the rocks to read the memorial plates I am startled and deeply moved. In memory of Anatoli Boukreev and his partner who died in an avalanche while trying to climb Annapurna I on a new rouite in winter. I'm meeting a kind of personal hero. I am deeply moved.
I never expected this here, had no idea about it. Some background: Anatoli Boukreev was a Kyrgyzstan climber who was on one of the fateful expeditions in 1996 and saved 2 people that night in a terrible storm. All without oxygen. He was extremely skilled and also very sensible as a , as the literature about him reveals. I read some. I was moved to tears when I read about his achievements. Now I was moved to have this sort of encounter.
After a little more wandering around I return to the lodge and sit outside and read weather permitting. When sometime later I enter the dining room to escape the rain I am shocked to notice the lack of respect of some people. A group of three are playing cards and smoking inside. Nobody says anything but obviuosly people are not quite happy. I feel like choking and so leave the room quickly. My room and the doorstep to my room will do.
There is a short window in the clouds around 5 pm offering us a glimpse into the magic of this place, the grandeur of the landscape. I was prepared and take a few pictures but the window closes up as fast as it opened. Then there's just whiteout.

Today I met a guy coming down from ABC. We met before in Tadapani but he was in a rush to get up to ABC. So I asked him today "Did you have good views? Was it a nice sunrise?" He said "yes" with a grimace. It wasn't that great, but he's going down since there's nothing else to do there.

And I'm thinking: these people are terrible. They rush for days to reach this superb spot, then they get here, see it, check it on their list and run back down. Like peakbagging.
I know I'll stay for a day here. I want to take it all in. It's an unique opportunity and I'm not in a rush. I feel small and insignificant, yet full of happiness and peace. I don't feel the urge to be with people, I enjoy the beauty and majesty of these places. I feel also extremely fortunate to be here.


"Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve,
they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion." - Anatoli Boukreev


I'm the first one at the lodge to get up next morning. As a result the dogs are starting to bark at me. Shut up!
I look for a spot to set up my tripod and then I'm all focused on the show. First Annapurna I gets its tip orange and soon is bathed in golden light. Annapurna South follows shortly after. The other peaks are coming a bit later in the show as they are much smaller. I take dozens of pictures. It is a fascinating show. Hiunchuli behind and the Tent, the Fang and the others look insignificant in comparison to the big giants. And yet, they are all giants.
There's a little bit of fresh powder on the mountain from last night. Machhapuchhre is against the light so it gets a little bit neglected, just like Annapurna III.

There's only just one problem: too many people and, therefore, too much noise.

It's 8:30 am when I sit at a table outside facing this gorgeous white amphitheater and enjoy breakfast. My back is turned towards Machhapuchhre and the valley. If I turn my head only a little I can see the hordes of people running down the valley. Veni, vidi, vici. Nobody's staying, nobody's having breakfast outside in the sun. And it's something as unique as getting here, really. I take my time and I enjoy the peacefulness that has been reestablished. It wasn't even 8am when the first trekkers were running down the valley already. Maybe it's better so. They leave and the scenery stays behind peaceful and untouched.

Later on I hike up a little higher to the rim of the glacier and enjoy the views in silence. Everybody has left. It is so undescribably magnificent. These white giants are enclosing this patch of meadows in a gigantic cirque. Machhapuchhre in front of me is negotiating with a few thin clouds but glitters in the sun by now. To its left is the wrinkled ridge leading over to Annapurna III. It's impossible to enjoy the 360degrees view. I wish I had more than 2 eyes :-)

I would like to rest here forever. Nonetheless, in a few days I'll be back to civilization and I'll just carry with me this feeling and these emotions. And sometimes, or maybe often, I'll even wonder whether I really touched this place, witnessed this grandeur and felt this happiness.

I spend all morning contemplating the scenery, meditating and reading. In the afternoon when the peaks are shrouded in clouds I continue reading inside or next to the lodge wrapped warmly in my winter jacket. Everybody else is inside whether it rains or not. I'm trying to sit outside as long as possible. Only the rain and darkness forces me to go inside.

A lovely day of leasure and contemplation. Of sun, great views and deep emotions; good food and cheerful local people. I feel more comfortable around them, even when they're teasing me (and they love doing it :-) than in the company of noisy trekkers. Some trekkers, not all.

I have met again the British ladies from Sinuwa and that was a very nice encounter. We spent the night at Himalayan and had a very nice conversation and we met again here at ABC in the morning.

The next morning is less perfect. The transition from dawn to daylight skips a step. There's no glow. A lot of people are disappointed waiting in vain next to their tripods. Nonetheless, within half an hour they are running down the mountain again. I am grateful and humble for yesterday's show. I feel privileged. And I certainly enjoy my breakfast with these stunning views of glittering peaks all around me.

Today I also take pictures of Pepe and Pipi and slowly, very slowly I get ready to leave. I don't feel like going. But one pressing issue is the fact that I'm running out of cash.
When I, eventually, say farewell to these mountains and this place my heart hurts and tears come to my eyes. It's definitely over with my control when I also say good-bye to the lodge staff. They've been so nice and friendly. Tears are running down my cheeks. Pipi, do we really have to go ?
Pipi is startled. He never believed that I have such a hard time leaving this place. He even looks a bit worried seeing me this emotional. OK, let's go. Let's go quickly!

Well, quickly is not quite the right word. I am turning every few steps taking "one last picture" every time. We are going down towards MBC and overwhelming Machhapuchhre leaving the Annapurnas behind. Sounds easier than it feels.
I stop to talk to many porters and salute every single soul I encounter. I discover some pink flowers and need to take more pictures...

Pipi runs ahead as usual and I only catch up with him a couple of hours later in Deurali. He's been running down. Even I passed everybody on the way down - whenever I did not turn or stop.
We stop at Himalayan for a tea. It's too early for lunch after the hearty long breakfast I had. We already dropped 1200m but I feel strong and can keep going.
We stop in Dovan for lunch right in time for the rain. And it's pouring for about an hour. Then a beautiful double rainbow smiles over the valley and the sun peaks out again. Time to go on.
When we reach Bamboo at 4:30pm it is fairly late, but there are no available rooms. Cool, let's go all the way down to Sinuwa! I'm excited to return to the nice lodge with the beautiful flower garden. Pipi is all but excited, but he has no choice.
The stretch takes us longer on the way down than it did on the way up. The ups and downs seem extremely strenuous and the only thing helping is joking and teasing each other. I whine at every stair down. "I hate downhill. Why don't we go up again?" And Pipi joins in saying that we could go down and then start going up again. And, since we have headlamps we could keep going all the way to Ghandruk, etc. I sing: "My knees hurt! And there are no monkeys! One more up and down. We're almost there! These damn monkeys are all hiding!" It doens't make any sense but fooling around keeps my mind busy. God, I don't remember this trail being so long and strenuous on the way up!

Eventually it gets dark and we also get caught up in the rain. Somebody has moved that lodge away. I'm sure we should have been there by now :-)

BVut we're lucky. There's one more room available. And Pipi teasing me "Don't you want to camp again?" No! Not in this rain, thank you.

After a cool shower and dinner I seek refuge to my room. I feel very tired. I want to read a bit and not worry about getting up early in the morning. Tomorrow we need to take it easy!