Hippos and Waterlilies

TDA Days 95 to 103
Botswana

A couple of warthogs stand on the side of the road pondering whether to cross the road or not. "Please, don't cross now!" I ask them kindly. We have entered Botswana a few hundred meters ago yet the line of waiting trucks seems endless. I'm not in a rush but prefer not to have to stop here. Our campsite is only a few kilometers away on the shore of the Chobe river bordering the Chobe National Park. This afternoon, if lucky, we'll be able to go on a boat trip on the river and spot some wildlife.

The campground is nice, the swimming pool small but clean and inviting. As usual I am unable to resist and jump into the water in my cycling clothes. It's the best refreshment and I'm back hyper again.

The boat trip is absolutely wonderful, I hope for everyone. I am so excited by now that I can hardly sit and mostly jump around taking lots of pictures. I am a huge stress factor for the others, I fear. We get to see a few elephants and quite a lot of hippos. There are also a few antelopes, a couple of lizards and a crocodile, all on the rivershore. But to just enumerate these is a dry and meaningless thing to do. It's not a zoo, neither a parade. What makes this boat trip so special for me, however, are the light and the colours, the contrasts and combinations of elements. I was hoping to see elephants in the water yet I wasn't prepared to see an elephant emerging from beneath a patch of white waterlilies. And certainly wasn't I prepared to see the hippos dotting the water - some with their ears and noses barely sticking out of the water - among more patches of waterlilies. All of a sudden Disney's Fantasia became less of a fantasy. Hippos dancing - why not?
Gliding over the peaceful water we watch a fantastic sunset bathing everything in the most beautiful warm light. The water and the trees, the sky, the waterlilies and our faces are all tinted golden where touched by the sun.

Botswana offers us long riding days traversing endless bushland; quite often there's strong headwind. The terrain is flat and quite monotonous. The bush is not offering much to see in terms of rich wildlife. We keep looking though and luckily the elephants show up on the roadside next to a waterhole. Wow! It is the Elephant Highway, indeed.

Since we left the hills behind we have encountered headwind. It's only fair, I think, that's what we are here for: to be challenged. It would be just too easy to ride hundreds of kilometers of flat paved road with tailwind.

Whenever we bushcamp there's a campfire. That just fits well into my African fantasies. I love the flickering light of the fire and the smell of the smoke. Pour me some red wine and nothing can beat this: no fancy restaurant or trendy wine bar. Just like every shower is a well-earned reward and the ultimate luxury. It's my kind of luxury: going far places to enjoy something as simple as this.

The road is monotonous and keeps the secrets of this land well. We only get a glimpse at Planet Baobab: about 1 km away from the main road a beautiful little resort around an enclave of baobabs. The place suprises with its beauty and design. The baobabs are absolutely stunning: the biggest I've seen so far. I wish there were more time to stay and explore the spot/area, to enjoy the fabulous swimming pool and take some pictures. These trees have been here for hundreds of years, they'll be here for a few hundreds more, probably. What secrets could they tell, how much history could they teach? How many more baobabs are still left in the area around? What other things could we find nearby if we had the time to explore?

The little town of Maun is the gateway to the famous Okavango Delta. Visiting the delta is a must, included in all "top n destinations" lists and books. Yet my body does not want to accept this and so, for a change, I dedicate the rest day to resting and relaxing. Surprisingly, it feels good in spite of the thought surfacing at some point that I might regret not taking the flight over the delta.

Botswana, with its long flat stretches challenged me to think about and remember many things and moments I had pushed back. It brought me back to my fears and their confrontation. You only turn 40 once. You better make sure you don't run away from your fears as they catch up with you just like age does. A good way to start: catching up on hugs :-)