The Desert Castles

Jordan

Imagine yourself, an Oriental merchant leading caravans from the Far East to magnificent cities like Damascus or Petra or Cairo.
You are driving your caravan through this barren desolate desert, a vast flat expanse of hard soil covered by black stones. There's nothing out there. You are only a few days away from Petra, your present destination, but you're also close to exhaustion.You've been travelling for days now with your animals packed with spices and silk, but your provisions have almost come to an end. You faced strong winds and the merciless scorching heat day after day. You're tired, thirsty, longing for a rest.

In the distance you notice a spot that is the shelter you've been yearning for. There's water, food and shade - that's what your mind likes to think there is. Of course, you know it's just a mirage. The heat and the state of exhaustion you're in are playing tricks on you.
The farther you walk, the deeper your state of exhaustion, the greater your thirst - the bigger the mirage.

And then, suddenly, you find yourself in front of it, the mirage turned to reality, the caravanserai Quasr Kharana.

In the middle of nowhere the square stone building welcomes you, traveller! Nowadays there's nothing there to long for, as the only travellers stopping are tourists. A guardian welcomes you and maybe - for a small tip - lets you climb up the roof for better views of the desert.

I imagined Quasr Kharana as the medieval equivalent of a Sheraton Hotel in the desert. It's as unbelievable as it sounds, extremely hard to imagine. The structure is almost perfectly symmetrical, with stables on the ground floor and many rooms on the upper floor. There are beautiful arched doorways and some specific medallions on the walls. And that's it.

There's more to imagine, though. If you are a member of the "medieval-day" jet-set you can get on a camel or horse and visit a few kilometers away the lovely Roman baths. Those are not for just anybody, but only for the all males partying crowd. The beautiful colourful frescoes depicting hunting scenes but also naked women (naked women in an Arab culture!) are definitely meant for the eyes of the young and rich.
If you're looking for this place, it's called Quasayr Amra and it's listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. It is truly special and beautiful.

The day trip to the so-called Desert Castles East of Amman takes you to a few places, some more remarcable than others. These two were the highlights for me.