Thursday, November 20, 2008

Hiking in Lebanon

Quadisha Valley, Lebanon

A long deep gorge running to the West, towards the sea, from the foot of the up to 3000m high mountains, the Qadisha Valley has long acquired the deserved recognition for its beauty and history - it is a UNESCO world heritage site. From the 5th century onward the Maronites sought refuge in the valley hence the presence of countless churches, monasteries and hermitages all cut into the rock. It is a lush valley with waterfalls and small streams running down its steep walls. Small tile-roofed villages overlook the gorge from the edge of the precipitous walls. Oak trees and pines grow in the valley, but there are also apple orchards and olive groves, the latter mostly belonging to the monasteries.
In the late afternoon sun the barren mountain ridges high above the valley glow pink, a strong pink applied generously by mother nature.

It was mid-November, a time of the year when the place seems forgotten by tourists and locals, when you can almost smell the arrival of winter in the air. But the weather was still mild, the short days crisp and sunny and walking on the thick layer of fallen leaves made the lovely rustling sound associated with fall. Some of the trees still harboured yellow, red and orange leaves, small vivid flags defying the cold and the coming winter. Superb fall days.

I wandered down the main path and then on several narrow faint trails that led me to isolated hermitages, peaceful corners where only the tidiness and the pretty flower pots indicated the presence of people. In the monastery gardens the roses still had some lovely blossoms, whereas the olive trees were dotted with their tiny black fruits. Other than birds and lizards I only saw a snake, but the area certainly houses other animals, too. I enjoyed exploring the ruins and caves and the small churches and shrines.
The meadows were still green. The plants and leaves peeking through the thick rust-brown carpet of leaves pointed to the presence of flowers. A wealth of flowers. I could only imagine how fabulous this lush valley must look like in spring. I could identify daffodils and crocusses on the trails and on patches of grass.
When I almost stepped on a lonely yellow crocus I was excited and took lots of pictures. How to describe the emotion of discovering a whole meadow carpeted with yellow crocusses shortly thereafter ?
It wasn't much different with the daffodils. I had discovered a small bunch next to the trail and took lots of pictures. They were small and fragile but so impatient and eager for the sun, that they didn't wait for spring to blossom. A little further I found the largest daffodil bunch ever. Growing wild and bold, its fragrant blossoms were ignoring the cold and the time of the year with their immaculate beauty.

Those were days of peacefulness and beauty I had longed for since my hikes/treks in Jordan. Away from people and the city, from cars and traffic, roads and noise. The Quadisha Valley was a wonderful and unexpected treat!

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