Waterwheels and Smiles

Hama, Syria

Hama may be a small city without much attractions to offer to the traveller, but what it lacks in sights it definitely makes up for in friendliness and prettiness.
In Hama I had dozens of people smiling and welcoming me.
The carpenter and the barber invited me for tea. The tea vendor in the small central park shared his oranges with me and offered me half of his brioche. Just like that, out of friendliness. How to resist ?

Hama has suffered in the more recent history, important parts of its old town being destroyed. What's left though is nicely restored and pretty. The Azem Palace, an Ottoman residential building (18th century) that has been lovingly restored and now houses the Traditional Museum, is a true gem. Absolutely wonderful!

And then there's the main attraction, which is indissolubly linked to Hama and always comes to mind when you mention Hama: the waterwheels. Up to 20m in diameter they have been attested since the 5th century. The ones still to be found today date from the 13th century. Since the land around the Orontes river is considerably higher than the river these huge wooden wheels have been used to scoop water from the river and irrigate the nearby fields and gardens. Small sections of the aqueduct are still in place today.

The wheels are fascinating, their slow movement accompanied by a continuous screeching and groaning. You could sit there for hours and watch them turn splashing water around or barely moving at times. It is a hypnotising show and a lovely somewhat sad sound you can get used to and love. I certainly fell in love with Hama.