The Gate to Europe

Istanbul, Turkey

It's a great actor. And a tough one. It has changed its name, looks and beliefs over the centuries. It has known glory. It has spread faith and it has spread terror. It has ruled and was conquered. It was looted and destroyed and it rose again. Istanbul, Constantinople, Byzantium. Every once in a while new historic evidence is found, supporting its justified claims for fame.

According to Wikipedia Istanbul has "the largest city proper in Europe, and the third largest city proper in the world." In recognition of their beauty and importance its historic areas are listed among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. You can easily spend weeks there just visiting the historic spots and monuments.

If, geographically, Istanbul is a gate to Europe, bridging two continents, its modern looks and rhythm are very European. At least that's the impression I got coming from Syria.

The old city core is a lovely display of gigantic monuments and picturesque corners and streets. This is where the major attractions are: the Aya Sophia, former church, then mosque, now museum, the famous Blue Mosque, the Byzantine water cistern, the Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the numerous other mosques, mausoleums and museums.
The climate on the Bosphorus is mild and so a clear winter day in December feels more like a short but gorgeous September day elsewhere. Roses still have blossoms, flower beds are still colourful and just the leafless trees betray appearances. The well maintained park near the Topkapi Palace is inviting you to stroll and forget any rush. The aroma of coffee is luring you to stop all the time. The sweets in the shopwindows are demolishing any determination to resist.

Lined up on the Galata Bridge which spans between the continents and across the Bosphorus, dozens of men are fishing. They're leaning over their fishing rods with their back turned to traffic. It's more to socialize and enjoy the views rather than support a family. Below the road level the bridge is nothing more than a chain of cafes and restaurants with an extremely colourful collection of chairs, stools and beanbags to sit on and eat or sip a coffee. A perfect spot to linger in the sun and watch the sunset. Sitting there above the water between continents you may ponder over the wheel of history and wonder at how geography determines and impacts the course of history. From time to time a flying fish jumps up into the sky right in front of you. It's just a little reminder in case you forgot the fishing rods lined up above you.

I only spent 2 days in Istanbul, intense days of visiting the major attractions but also walking for hours on the streets and watching the people.

I marvelled at the beauty of Aya Sophia. Though massive in dimensions there are lots of delicate details to notice and admire, from the stunning mosaics to the hanging lamps and architecture elements.

The Blue Mosque was rather a disappointment. In spite of its indisputable beauty the place lacked the expected feeling. I guess I just got spoiled in Damascus. This is clearly a place for prayers and not one where people come to socialize and spend time. Furthermore, there are "Do not sit" signs everywhere on the floor around the columns where you could actually sit peacefully. As a tourist you are supposed to enter, take pictures and leave right away. As a local or worshipper you are supposed to enter, pray and leave. It is, I thought, more of a Western kind of approach or rhythm, one where the "business" aspect is more important. To me it was a fair bit disappointing.

But there was something else here that will stay with me forever, something I can't share or describe. Yet I can close my eyes and dive into the memory of that feeling now and always. The muezzine "beat" any other I'd heard before. When the deep melancholic voice raised and spread over the courtyard and the city calling for prayer it cut straight to my heart. No, I can't put it in words and I can't even hope to hear anything like that very soon. It was the most beautiful call for prayer I had ever heard throughout this whole year. It was simply divine.

I've got unfinished business with this place, but Turkey overall, it seems to me, deserves more than just a few weeks to discover it.
And so I said good-bye to the actor. Who knows next time I'll come what mask it will wear ?