The Call of the Desert

My next planned desert outing was shorter but expensive. To reach the areas I wanted to go to I needed a lift and a jeep in Wadi Rum - or Jordan in general - is not at all cheap.

First came Burdah Rock Bridge, a gigantic arch spanning high above a huge precipice and offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area. It is one of the scrambles people usually hire a guide for. Route finding can be a challenge, but fortunately there are always cairns you can rely on. The route description in my book was certainly accurate and so I had no doubts about going by myself. I just needed to be dropped there and then picked up the next day and dropped at the other location.

The drive through the desert to the bottom of the mountain was an amazing experience itself. The scenery here had a broader colour pallette with white rock and sand alternating with the pink one. Also the domes were smaller and more numerous, dotting the desert in a random arrangement offering a fabulous view from above.
There was nobody around in the early afternoon and after a bit of resting in the shade I headed up. The scramble over slabs and rocks, through a chimney and a narrow gully was fun, every single step being rewarded with better views and different angles.
I had the mountain, the bridge and the whole area all to myself and I greatly enjoyed this. Pepe and I spent time up there contemplating the panoramic views and taking pictures. Too bad I had not taken the tripod up this time :-(

Route finding on the way down seemed to be more tricky and that simply because I didn't pay enough attention on the way up. Never follow blindly some cairns, was the lesson reinforced that day :-)

When I arrived at the bottom one of my sandal straps was broken and I fixed it - as usual - with duct tape. Great invention, the duct tape! I had by now camera, backpack, pants and now my sandal duct-taped. What next? I wonder.

The following day I was supposed to climb up Um Adaami, the highest peak in Jordan at over 1800m. It is actually a simple hike up over scree and uninteresting rock according to the guidebook, and also to Awad. The excellent views from the top are breathtaking and unequalled, it is said. But Awad somehow convinced me that another area - Khashkhash - was far more interesting than this mountain. And I was stupid enough to let him persuade me. And so I ended up in the area where the white and red desert meet and few tourists go.
Awad dropped me next to a cave I could use to overnight and left. Of course the next thing I did was to repack my stuff leaving extra food and water behind. I wasn't going to stay there, a spot with no views and too much litter around. I was hoping to find a way up one of the big mountains around and spend the night there overlooking the area. Then I would return the next day to be picked up by Awad.

Frustrated I took off and explored a narrow canyon which - based on the tracks - seemed to be used a lot by shepherds. There were a little dam, a water cistern, a few fire places and countless goat tracks to be seen here. The denser vegetation also confirmed that in winter this place had more water than the surrounding area. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find a way up the mountain and I just scrambled up and around some domes. Eventually, since the sun was going to set soon I stopped on a higher mound of brittle rock and scree which offered good views around. It wasn't quite what I had dreamed of, but I tried to make the best out of it. Of course I was pissed off at myself for being so easy to persuade :-)

In the morning I took my time with pictures and breakfast and then continued exploring the nearby cracks and canyons. While doing so I scrambled up a higher dome and discovered stunning views to the North, behind the mountain. There, at my feet lay a maze of domes and mounds like a display of intricately carved sculptures created by a playful artist. I wished I had found the spot the day before... I took lots of pictures and then explored some more the area. Scouting around I thought I identified the routes up the adjoining mountains. When I walked over to check one of these I only got my confirmation.
However, I have seen bedouins climb in this area and I must admit that they are the most natural rock climbers I've ever seen. The ease, lightness and surefootedness with which they climb is absolutely amazing. At least the bedouins around Wadi Rum are at home on (this) rock. I was soon to watch little Ibrahim (13) free climbing some walls as if it were the most natural thing to do. I was watching him worried from below, fearful at every one of his moves whereas his parents were having tea relaxed nearby. This was their children's playground in the end :-)

Having said that I must admit that here, on a bunch of these routes up, I couldn't manage to get over the start. It was the first 3-4 meters section, sometimes with a little bit of overhang that stopped me short. That it was the route up and not just my phantasy I could tell by the bedouin steps (a pile of rocks to reduce the gap) below and sometimes even the presence of cairns. I managed to find an alternate route up this mountain in the end but had to leave my camera and stuff back. I simply couldn't haul myself up with the few kilograms on my back :-) And, being by myself, I didn't want to go up some rock and then get stuck there unable to climb down.

In short, I ended up having a great time scrambling and exploring this area. I wished for more time, but that was not possible now. Therefore, I decided that, if I ever managed to return to Wadi Rum, I would not just go up Um Adaami but also return to this spot for further exploration and rock delight :-)

I was happy to see Haya again when I arrived back in the village. She had left for university during my previous trip but had now returned for a couple of days. My plan was to leave Wadi Rum after another day but the family planned a desert outing the following day (and night) and they wanted me to join them. How could I resist ?Therefore, I changed my departure plan without regrets. The desert was calling me clearly and I enjoyed returning and seeing yet another area.

Running up and down the sand dunes with the kids, watching the starlit sky at night, listening to the bedouin stories around the fire while sipping a cup of sweet bedouin tea - all this added to the magic of the desert.

Wadi Rum is a unique spot where you find beauty and tranquility; where you can meditate and search for answers undistracted; where you may, as well, play in the sand or scramble up rocks to exhaustion.
It is a place I hope to go back to.